Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Sweet Spot


There is a new chocolate shop that recently opened in the Bishops Arts District. It is called Dude, Sweet Chocolate and is amazing.

So amazing, in fact, that it got me thinking about making truffles at home. Truffles are essentially a ganache, melted chocolate mixed with cream and optional flavorings, rolled in cocoa powder, powdered sugar, chopped nuts, etc. Nothing so difficult, eh?

The truffles may be infused with any number of flavors. Think spices, nuts, citrus, fruits, liqueurs, teas, coffees, herbs, use your imagination to craft combinations that will match, offset, or heighten the chocolate flavor.

If you want vegan truffles, substitute coconut milk for the heavy cream. The coconut milk does not add flavor to the chocolate, but it is rich enough to create a silky smooth confection that is dairy free for those who care about that sort of thing.

The quality of chocolate you use is paramount to the final taste of the truffle, so be sure to buy the best quality chocolate you can find. Whether you make chocolates yourself, or leave it to the pros, savor this food of the Gods. It is a key ingredient to life's sweetness.



Basic Ganache
From Fine Cooking Magazine

12 oz. semi- or bittersweet chocolate
1 cup heavy cream (or coconut milk)
2 Tablespoons butter (leave out if making vegan truffles)

Grind the chocolate in a food processor until it reaches the consistency of coarse meal, about 30 seconds. Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the cream to the food processor and process until smooth, about 10 seconds. Add butter to warm ganache and process until smooth, about 10 seconds.

Alternately, chop the chocolate with a serrated knife into small pieces and place in a bowl. Bring cream and butter to a boil, pour over chocolate, and gently stir until chocolate melts.

Transfer ganache to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours.



Truffles
From Fine Cooking Magazine

1 recipe basic ganache, refrigerated for at least 2 hours
1 cup sifted cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-processed)
8 oz semisweet chocolate, chopped

Put the cocoa powder in a large bowl. Using 2 teaspoons, drop rounded, heaping teaspoonfuls of the truffle mixture onto a large, parchment, lined baking sheet. When all of he truffles are scooped, dip them in the cocoa and use your palms to roll the truffles into smooth 1 inch balls (don't worry about making them perfect; slightly irregular truffles have an appealing homemade appearance). Transfer the truffles to the refrigerator.

Melt the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl set in a small skillet of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally until smooth. Transfer the bowl to a work surface. Working in batches use your fingers or a couple of forks to coat the truffles with the melted chocolate, coat them again with cocoa or nuts (or any variation below) and return them to the baking sheet. If using your hands, you'll have to stop and wash off the chocolate in between batches.

Let the truffles sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before serving. If not serving right away, store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator where they will keep for up to 5 days. Bring them to room temperature before serving.

Flavor Ideas:



Nut Coating

After coating the truffles with melted chocolate, coat them with 1 cup of your choice of finely chopped toasted nuts instead of cocoa powder.

Liqueur Filling

3 tablespoons liqueur -Amaretto, Baileys, Chambord, Frangelico, Grand Marnier, Kahlua, etc- may be stirred into melted ganache prior to refrigeration.



Peanut Butter and Jelly

Add 2/3 cup strawberry jam to the ganache and process until smooth. Coat the truffles with 2 cups ground salted peanuts.


Mexican Chocolate

Add 2 Tbsp. Kahlua liqueur, 2 tsp. instant espresso, and 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon to the ganache. Coat the truffles with 1 cup ground toasted almonds.

Toffee and Fleur de Sel

Add 1/2 cup ground toffee bits (use Heath Bars and grind them coarsely in a food processor) and 1/4 tsp. fleur de sel to the ganache. Use 1 1/4 cups finely ground toffee bits mixed with 1 tsp. fleur de sel for the coating.

Infused Truffles:

This technique requires you infuse the cream with a flavoring, allow that flavoring to permeate the cream, then strain and add to chopped chocolate.



Earl Grey and Honey Truffles

If coffee is more your thing, substitute espresso powder for tea leaves. A vanilla bean may also be steeped in heavy cream for a more classic truffle.

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons loose-leaf Earl Grey Tea
the seeds from 5 cardamom pods, optional
1-2 tablespoons high-quality local honey, depending on your preference and sweetness of chocolate

sifted powdered sugar for rolling

Bring cream to a simmer over low heat. Remove from heat to a small bowl, add earl grey and cardamom, cover, and steep for 5 minutes. Strain cream back into bowl, reheat to a simmer, and proceed with basic ganache recipe, adding honey after adding cream to chocolate.



Pistachio-Basil Truffles

Pistachio-basil is a uniquely delicious combination, but has an exotic flavor. For more traditional truffle flavors, use 10 sprigs of fresh mint to make a chocolate-mint truffle, white chocolate, lemon thyme and lemon oil for a lemony truffle, or bittersweet chocolate, orange zest, and Cointreau for an orange truffle.

12 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
1 cup heavy cream or coconut milk
5 large basil leaves, torn
1/3 cup chopped, toasted pistachios
1 strip orange zest, white pith removed

cocoa powder and chopped pistachios for rolling

Bring cream or coconut milk to a simmer. Place basil, pistachio, and orange zest in a small bowl. Pour hot cream over ingredients, cover, and infuse for 20 minutes. Strain cream back into saucepan and bring to a simmer. Proceed with basic ganache and truffle recipe.

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Friday, January 22, 2010

Who DAT?


I am not a big football fan, y'all, but how bout dem Saints?! I caught the tail end of last evenings overtime game and the excitement in the air was contagious.

The Superbowl is always a fun game, though. It is the one game a year I will actually sit through and watch. Well, mostly. I'm actually more excited to prepare the food and drink at noon, but it all contributes to the fun.

This is my version of the classic New Orleans dish, red beans and rice. It's good any time of the year, really, but would also be a nice addition to a Superbowl party, especially if you are so inclined to root for Louisiana. Geaux Saints!


Red Beans and Rice
Serves 8-10

1 pound dried red beans, or 2 cans drained and rinsed canned red beans
1-2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 pound anduille sausage links
1 yellow onion, chopped fine
2 celery stalks, chopped fine
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 quart chicken broth
2 tablespoons parsley

Scallions and white rice, for service

If using dried beans, soak beans overnight. Drain and rinse and place in a large pot with enough water to cover by 1-2 inches. Bring to boil, reduce, cover, and simmer until beans are soft and cooked through, about 1 1/2 hours. Reserve beans and their cooking liquid.

In a large dutch oven, saute sausage links in 1-2 teaspoons of oil until browned on outside. Remove and set aside. Add onion and celery to the pot and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, cumin, thyme, and cayenne, stir until fragrant, 30 seconds.

Preheat oven to 300. Add beans to pot along with some of their cooking liquid and some chicken stock, enough to cover by 1". If using canned beans, just use chicken broth. Bring mixture to a boil, add sausage, and place uncovered in preheated oven.

Cook for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until flavors are blended, sausage is tender, and liquid is slightly reduced, you may need to add more liquid, if so just use chicken broth. Remove sausage and cut into slices. Reduce bean liquid on stove top if necessary. Mash some beans against the side of the pot for a thicker sauce. Add parsley, sausage, and adjust for seasoning. Serve with white rice and a sprinkling of scallions.

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Monday, January 11, 2010

Do - Re - Mi - So


Miso is a fermented soybean paste and a staple culinary ingredient in the Japanese diet. Miso has a salty earthy flavor and rich nutritional profile. I would like now to sing its praise.

Miso paste is high in protein, making it a great flavoring agent for vegans and vegetarians. It is a good source of vitamins, notably vitamins E, K, B2, and B12, and minerals such as zinc (immune support), manganese (energy production), and copper (antioxidant).

Studies have shown miso helps to reduce the risk of breast, colon, prostate, and lung cancer due to its alkalizing and antioxidant properties, as well as reducing inflamation, balancing hormones, and strengthening immunity.

Miso is a fermented product and contains probiotics. Probiotics help to produce "good" bacteria in our digestive systems which is vital for proper nutrient absorption and assimilation. A healthy digestive system is the key to a healthy immune system.

Also, miso is high in antioxidants which help to fight free radicals that guard our cells against oxidation and aging. Miso also contains lineolic acid, an essential fatty acid especially beneficial to the skin.

Most Japanese eat miso soup everyday. It is a satisfying and healthy meal with soft tofu, noodles, spinach, green onion, and seaweed, though do be inspired to add whatever additional flavors you enjoy.




Miso Soup
Adapted from Gourmet

The initial broth, called Dashi, is a combination of kombu (dried kelp), bonito flakes (dried mackerel) and water. If you cannot find these ingredients, pure water may be substituted in its place, but Dashi is amazing so be thorough with your search.

1/2 cup dried wakame (a type of seaweed)
1/4 cup shiro miso (white fermented-soybean paste)
6 cups Dashi, recipe follows
1/2 pound soft tofu, drained and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 packed cups baby spinach
4 ounces thin tofu or rice noodles, cooked according to package directions
1/4 cup thinly sliced scallion greens

Prepare wakame:

Combine wakame with warm water to cover by 1 inch and let stand 15 minutes, or until reconstituted. Drain in a sieve.

Make soup:

Stir together miso and 1/2 cup dashi in a bowl until smooth. Heat remaining dashi in a saucepan over moderately high heat until hot, then gently stir in tofu, spinach, noodles and reconstituted wakame. Simmer 1 minute and remove from heat. Immediately stir in miso mixture and scallion greens and serve.

Dashi

6 cups cold water
1 oz (30 grams) kombu (dried kelp), about 20 square inches
2 (5-gram) packages katsuo bushi (dried bonito flakes), about 1 cup

Bring cold water and kombu just to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Remove from heat and remove kombu. Sprinkle katsuo bushi over liquid; let stand 3 minutes and, if necessary, stir to make katsuo bushi sink. Pour through a cheesecloth-lined sieve or a coffee filter into a bowl.

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Tuesday, January 5, 2010

G'astronomy


I vaguely remember one day mentioning something about rotating between sweet and savory items, but that was, like, a decade ago. This is a whole new year, and this year is the Year of the Cake.

You see, the Chinese Zodiac associate each new year with an animal. I prefer to classify personality traits with baked goods.

Those born in the Year of the Cake are highly versatile and have a unique ability to conform to many situations, occasions, and tastes. Cake people are creative, charming, and extremely lovable. They are a perfect mixture of airy lightness and rich decadence.

Year of the Cake folk love to rise to an occasion and are the life of any party. Generally, because of their beauty and versatility, cake people are well liked. They are romantic, fun-loving, and playful.

Cake people can sometimes be dense, or because of their delicate nature, may become tough if handled roughly. They are people pleasers and will try very hard to be adored.




Maybe you are born in the Year of the Cake, maybe no. Either way, this moist and delicious Bananas N' Cream Bundt Cake will be a simple and welcome addition to your baking repertoire.

Bananas N' Cream Bundt Cake
Adapted from Taste of Home
Serves 12-16

1/3 cup shortening (I used Vegan Margarine by Earth Balance), room temperature
1 cup sugar
2 eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1-1/4 cups mashed ripe bananas (about 3 medium)
2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (8 ounces) sour cream, room temperature
3/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
Confectioners' sugar

In a large bowl, or the bowl of a standing mixer with a paddle attachment, cream the shortening and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, and scraping down the bowl. Beat in vanilla. Add bananas and mix well. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; add to the creamed mixture alternately with sour cream, stirring just until combined. Stir in chocolate chips and walnuts.

Pour into a greased and floured 10-in. fluted tube pan. Bake at 350° for 50-55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes before removing from pan to a wire rack to cool completely. Dust with confectioners' sugar.

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Sunday, December 27, 2009

A New Year of Cake


A few weeks ago a friend and I catered a party for 80 people. We did all of the main appetizers and finger foods but they had the dessert catered in from a local bakery. The platter was an array of raspberry and apricot turnovers, assorted cookies, and the dessert that has currently ruined me for any other dessert, the cake ball.

Have you heard of a cake ball, or had one before? They are amazing and so simple to make. The cake ball was invented by wedding cake makers who often had extra scraps of cake lying around. They mixed the crumbled cake with frosting, formed it into a ball, and dipped it in chocolate.

Most recipes suggest using boxed cake mix and frosting, which I know I've talked trash about in the past, but that was before I worked 6 days a week. If you're in any kind of a time crunch, the boxed cake mixes will certainly ease this process along.



I incline toward the Barefoot Contessa brand of cake mixes as a frosting mix is included and they taste the most like a cake made from scratch. I have also used a Duncan Hines boxed mix and Betty Crocker frosting and people loved them.

Many adults pass on cake because they only want a bite or two, which is why the cake ball is a great alternative to a regular cake. They can be made into any flavor combination you like and are a great year round treat.

Cake balls are even more beautiful, and easier to work with, when dressed up as lollipops. A quick trip to you local craft store will provide lollipop sticks, cellophane bags, ribbon, melting chocolate, sprinkles, and desert foam.

Invite over a few friends, pop the top on some bubbly, and spend an afternoon with a fun and delicious culinary arts and crafts project.



Cake Balls
Makes about 36 balls

If you want more detailed photos than the few I have provided, check out the post at The Pioneer Woman. Bakerella also has very clever ideas.

1 9x13" cake, can be any flavor, made from scratch, made from a box, store bought.. whatever
1 12 ounce jar prepared frosting, or 10-12 ounces frosting made from scratch, any flavor you like but make sure it compliments the flavor of the cake
Almond bark, Confectionary Wafers, Baker's White Chocolate, or any other confectionary melting chocolate you like

Optional: lollipop sticks, cellophane wrappers, sprinkles, various ribbons, wrapping paper, desert foam, decorative icing, or any other decorative accoutrements you could possibly dream up.

Directions:

Bake the cake and set it aside to cool. I like to remove the edges from the cake because they can sometimes be a little dry. Crumble the cake into a large bowl, or as I do, into the bowl of my stand mixer. Add frosting, beginning with about 8-10 ounces of frosting. I don't think you need the whole container but if you like it really sweet, don't let me stop you. You want enough frosting to hold the cake together but not so much that the balls are too sweet or doughy.

Mix the cake and frosting until all frosting is combined. This can be done with a few forks, (may take a little time, but just keep going) or really quickly with the paddle attachment of your stand mixer.

Roll the cake into uniform shaped balls on a plastic lined rimmed baking sheet:




If you wanna be really cool, stick em with a lollipop stick before freezing them:



Pop the cake balls, uncovered, into the freezer for at least an hour. This makes them easier to roll into the chocolate.

Melt the chocolate, almond bark, or confectionary coating over a double boiler on the stove top. I just place a large glass bowl over a medium saucepan of simmering water and mix until chocolate is melted.

Dip balls into chocolate, one at a time, until ball is coated with chocolate. Immediately decorate with sprinkles, or whatever, as chocolate begins to set up and harden quickly.

If you're making lollipops it is important to purchase the green desert foam as you can then stick the pops in the foam to harden and cool. Wrap with cellophane paper and a ribbon. They are ready to surprise and delight people all over town. Have fun!!

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Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Fleeting


The pear is a lovely fruit, elegant and juicy in its perfection, but not without flaws. Pears are a fruit that ripen off the vine and are generally sold rock hard, meant to ripen on your counter top. The problem is, every time a shopper picks up a pear and squeezes it, the touch leaves an invisible bruise that ripens along with the fruit. As the pear ages, the wear and tear begins to show.

This is why I prefer to bake with pears instead of waiting on their fleeting moment of ripeness (in which they are satisfactorily eaten out of hand). It is better for pears to be firm when you cook with them. This way they hold their shape and texture instead of turning to mush.

The idea for this dessert was born from my inability to make a decision. I was torn as whether to make a pie or a crisp and as life is currently teaching me how to make each situation a win/win, the thought to combine the two proved to be a superb solution.

I have a small area of counter space so made 6 individual tarts as the small portions of dough are easier to roll out. This could also be made into one large tart, in which case you would increase the baking time.

The crumble topping works in two ways. One, it protects the fruit from drying out while baking, and two, it makes the dessert extraordinary. Crunchy, buttery, and sweet, along with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream, this is a flawless fall treat.




Individual Rustic Pear Crumble Tarts
Serves 6

These are best the day they are made, as the crust is not as flaky or crisp on day two.

Crust
Courtesy of The Best of Baking

2 tablespoons sour cream (I used Greek Yogurt, worked fine)
2 tablespoons ice water
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup fine stone-ground yellow cornmeal
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch pieces

Stir together the sour cream and water in a small liquid measuring cup. Set aside in the refrigerator.

In a food processor, process the flour, cornmeal, sugar, and salt until combined, four 1 second pulses. Scatter half of the butter pieces over the flour mixture and process to cut the butter into the flour mixture until the butter is the size of small peas, about four 1 second pulses. Scatter the remaining butter over the flour mixture and pulse to cut the butter into the flour mixture until most of the butter is incorporated and some pea size bits remain. While processing, pour the sour cream mixture through the feed tube until the dough just comes together around the blade, about five 1 second pulses. Turn the dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap, flatten into a 6 inch disk, wrap tightly, and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 2 days before rolling.


Filling

3 pears, about 3 cups, peeled, cored, and sliced thin
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated ginger (optional)
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
juice of 1/2 lemon

Place pears in a medium sized bowl. Add sugar, ginger, cinnamon, and lemon and toss to combine. Allow to sit for 10-15 minutes so pears release some of their juices.

Crumble Topping

1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup granola (I used ginger flavored granola)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted.

In a small bowl, combine flour, brown sugar and granola. Add melted butter and stir with a fork until mixture is wet and crumbly.

Assembly


Preheat oven to 400. Remove dough from refrigerator and divide into 6 equal portions. Work with one piece of dough at a time, keeping other pieces refrigerated until ready to use. Form dough into a rough disk and place on a floured sheet of parchment paper. Roll out into a 6-7" circle, cut parchment to just fit around circle and place back in the refrigerator. Repeat with other pieces of dough and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Working with 1 section of dough at a time, remove from the refrigerator and fill with 1/2 cup pear filling, draining extra juice from pears. Fold the dough up and around the filling until the dough is crimped and sealed. Place on rimmed baking sheet in the refrigerator and repeat with remaining pieces of dough. Chill another 30 minutes.

Brush the dough with water and sprinkle crumble topping evenly over tarts, pressing gently to adhere. Bake until the crust and topping are a rich golden color, about 30 minutes. Serve right away, or store on a cooling rack for a few hours and reheat in a 350 oven for 15 minutes before serving with ice cream.

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Rate of Enjoyment


Fish can be a tricky item to prepare. It has the uncanny ability to overcook, thus rendering the final product dry and flavorless. Fish is also not cheap. Choosing fish as a meal option can sometimes be a risky proposition. During these unsure economic times who wants to risk losing their supermarket investment?

This is why you protect your dinner portfolio with cooking methods that ensure safe and consistent returns. This is an incredibly easy and fool-proof way to cook salmon. By slowly roasting the fish in a 250 degree oven for 30 minutes, the result is a succulent piece of fish that has a soft, moist, watery quality to it, the evidence of perfectly cooked fish.

Flavor possibilities are nearly endless, though any analyst will tell you to never indulge in too much risk taking. Cooking is synonymous with taking risks but the risks have to be weighed in relation to the flavor possibilities of any given ingredient.

I am reminded of my friend Rachel whose husband came home one evening with a freshly caught salmon. All she had in the fridge was butter and strawberry jam so that is what she put on the fish. She raved about how fantastic that fish was and to this day I marvel at her good fortune and bravery.

Me, I am less of a risk taker. I like to play it safe which is why the fish you see in these photos is flavored with classic Asian ingredients. This dish ensures people keep coming back for more, and that is the highest return a chef can hope for.




Honey-Soy Slow Roasted Salmon

The cooking technique for this fish is located at a wonderful blog called Steamy Kitchen. Check it out for more inspiration on what to do with this dish as well as hundreds of other quick and scrumptious Asian recipes.

For Marinade:

the juice of 1 orange
the juice of 1/2 a lemon
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon sambal oleck, or other Asian hot sauce (optional)

Whisk together all ingredients in medium bowl until sugar and honey are dissolved.

For Salmon:

1 1/2 pounds wild salmon, whole or divided into 4 6 oz pieces
1 orange, sliced

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Place orange slices on rimmed baking sheet large enough to suspend the fish.

Pull fish from the refrigerator and marinate on the counter top for 20 minutes. (This helps the fish come to room temperature so it cooks more evenly in the oven.) Remove from marinade, but reserve marinade, place fish on top of orange slices and bake in the oven 30 minutes. (My piece of fish was very thin so I checked it after 25 minutes and it was done.) When a sharp knife inserted into the center easily comes out, the fish is done.

Meanwhile, place marinade ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium high heat. Bring to a boil and reduce until a glaze like consistency is reached. You will have 3-4 tablespoons. If it reduces too much or the mixture is to salty/spicy/sweet etc. add a bit of water until consistency and flavor are attained. Strain marinate thru a fine mesh strainer and reserve.

For Presentation:

1 1 1/2" piece fresh ginger, peeled and julienned into thin strips
4 green onions, 2 cut into 1 1/2 inch julienne, 2 sliced thinly
1 teaspoon cooking oil

Heat a skillet over high heat with cooking oil until smoking. Add julienned ginger and green onion and saute until fragrant and flavors pop, about 20 seconds.


Once fish is cooked, remove fish from the oven. Brush with glaze and top with julienned mixture and green onions.

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